The BRICS+ Fashion Summit 2023, held from November 28 to December 2 in Moscow, was a dazzling display of fashion talent from the BRICS nations (Brazil, Russia, India, China, and South Africa) and beyond. The event featured numerous fashion shows, showcasing a diverse range of styles, cultures, and emerging trends.
Sadaels [Argentina]
Sadaels, the brainchild of Argentinian designer Juan Hernandez Daels, truly stood out at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit 2023. His Spring/Summer 2024 collection was a captivating blend of classic elegance, sharp tailoring, and a touch of Latin American sensuality. The collection, inspired by the concept of “transformation”, featured garments that could be adapted to different contexts and climates. The collection showcased Sadaels’ signature tailoring and craftsmanship, as well as innovative fabrics and techniques. It was well received by the critics and the audience, who praised Sadaels for its creativity and relevance in the global fashion scene.
Arzu Kaprol [Turkey]
Arzu Kaprol, a Turkish designer renowned for her sophisticated and timeless pieces, also made a splash at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit 2023. The collection featured innovative fabrics, geometric shapes and metallic colours, reflecting the strength and independence of women across the globe. Kaprol said that she wanted to create a collection that was both functional and expressive, inspired by the resilience and creativity of humanity. Despite its contemporary edge, Kaprol’s collection exudes a sense of timeless elegance. The focus on clean lines, classic silhouettes, and neutral colours with pops of earthy tones creates pieces that will remain relevant for years to come.
CHNNYU [China]
CHNNYU’s collection was a stunning showcase of the designer’s innovative and eclectic style. The collection pushed the boundaries of fashion with its avant-garde silhouettes, unconventional fabrics, and thought-provoking narrative. Chnnyu’s designs don’t follow traditional fashion rules. We saw deconstructed forms, asymmetrical cuts, and unexpected fabric combinations that challenge our perception of clothing. Chnnyu loves playing with contrasts. Think soft and flowing fabrics juxtaposed with stiff and structured elements, delicate embroidery paired with bold graphic prints, and muted tones punctuated by vibrant splashes of colour. This interplay of duality created a visually captivating and thought-provoking collection.
Kunjina [Ethiopia]
Kunjina, the Ethiopian brand helmed by designer Dawit Nasa, made a striking debut at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit 2023. The collection reflects the designer’s desire to challenge boundaries and explore new directions for Ethiopian fashion. Denim and linen take centre stage with a fresh and unexpected twist. Think deconstructed jackets, layered skirts, and playful denim-on-denim pairings, all elevated with unique details and unexpected cuts. This shows Kunjina’s ability to take a familiar material and transform it into something truly unique and stylish. The use of natural fabrics like cotton and linen aligns with Kunjina’s commitment to sustainability and ethical practices. We loved the collections clean lines, beautiful craftsmanship, and innovative use of denim.
The FDCI Presents Ritesh Kumar, Naushad Ali, Gaurav Khanijo, Shruti Sancheti [India]
The Indian Handloom Show was a spectacular display of the country’s rich and diverse handloom heritage. Presented by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), the show held at the State Historical Museum of Russia and featured four talented designers: Ritesh Kumar, Naushad Ali, Gaurav Khanijo and Shruti Sancheti who showcased their unique styles and visions, using hand woven fabrics and techniques from different regions of India
Gaurav Khanijo is a master of blending traditional and contemporary elements. His collection was influenced by the Mughal era, using handloom fabrics such as chanderi, jamdani, and brocade. He added a modern twist to the classic kurta, sherwani, and bandhgala, using geometric motifs and metallic accents.
Naushad Ali is a champion of slow fashion and ethical production. His collection was based on the concept of zero waste, using handloom fabrics such as linen, cotton, and silk. He created fluid silhouettes and eye catching prints, reflecting playful elegance.
Ritesh Kumar is known for his innovative use of natural dyes, organic cotton, and khadi. His ultra-modern collection featured structural yet deconstructed pieces in neutral tones, speaking to the contemporary aesthetic of new Indian fashion.
Shruti Sancheti is a versatile designer who experiments with different fabrics, techniques, and themes. Her earth-toned collection in different types of silks was a seamless marriage of traditional Indian techniques moulded for today’s modern woman.
Hany El Behairy [Egypt]
Hany El Behairy’s collection was nothing short of spectacular, stealing the show with its opulence, Egyptian cultural influences, and sheer craftsmanship. A love letter to El Behairy’s Egyptian heritage, the collection was a dazzling display of luxury, cultural pride, and impeccable artistry. This collection wasn’t about subtlety; it was about embracing extravagance and unabashed glamour. Think layers of tulle, shimmering crystals, and dramatic silhouettes that exuded confidence and red-carpet-worthy elegance. Every piece in the collection was meticulously crafted by hand, showcasing El Behairy’s commitment to traditional techniques and impeccable attention to detail. The collection showcased the incredible talent of an Egyptian designer and offered a glimpse into the future of haute couture, where heritage and glamour seamlessly intertwine.
AL.DRI.E [Indonesia]
Aldrie Indrayana, the mastermind behind the Indonesian luxury label AL.DRI.E, captivated the audience at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit 2023 with his Fall/Winter 2023 collection. While the eclectic collection exuded international appeal, it also proudly celebrated Indonesian heritage. Intricate batik patterns, traditional embellishments like beadwork and embroidery, and subtle nods to Indonesian architecture added a unique cultural touch to the otherwise modern and futuristic designs. The unique styling of the pieces and overall look of the models going down the runway indeed captivated audiences with a side of contemporary up and coming Indonesian culture that is not often seen on international runways.
David Tlale [South Africa]
David Tlale’s showcase at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit 2023 was undoubtedly one of the most talked-about events. Known for his bold prints, vibrant colours, and intricate tailoring, Tlale didn’t disappoint, delivering a collection that was both captivating and thought-provoking. His love for layering shone through and was expertly married with bold contemporary prints that brought a sense of playful chic to the runway. His collection received international acclaim, solidifying his position as a leading African designer on the global stage. It sparked conversations about inclusivity, gender fluidity, and the power of fashion to challenge societal norms and the emphasis on craftsmanship and sustainability resonated with audiences seeking ethically produced and conscious fashion.
Batakovic Belgrade [Serbia]
Batakovic Belgrade is one of the most renowned fashion designers in Serbia, and her latest collection at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit was a stunning showcase of her talent and vision. Her designs cater to confident individuals who appreciate effortless elegance and timeless style which includes sharp tailoring, clean lines, and sophisticated silhouettes that flatter diverse body types. While the collection emphasizes wearability, it also features some show-stopping pieces that make a statement. Batakovic Belgrade said that she wanted to create a collection that celebrated the creativity and collaboration of the emerging economies, and that she was inspired by the themes of sustainability, technology, and empowerment.
Lucas Leão [Brazil]
Lucas Leão, the talented Brazilian designer, certainly made a splash at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit 2023 with his closing showcase that combined technology and traditional design. He presented a selection of his best pieces from three collections, featuring ceramic, frayed fabric and Brazilian tailoring. He is part of a new generation of designers who use 3D modelling to create innovative shapes and textures that left the audience enthralled. Leão’s designs draw inspiration from diverse sources, including Brazilian folklore, pop culture, and contemporary art. This was evident in the collection, where traditional embroidery techniques were juxtaposed with futuristic silhouettes and unexpected fabric combinations. This fusion of influences resulted in a collection that was both familiar and refreshingly unique.
