Sustainable Fashion is Rooted in African Techniques and Lifestyles

Fashion’s sustainability conversation has often been dominated by western narratives – touting the use of organic materials, circular fashion, upcycling and waste reduction as revolutionary concepts. Yet, in Africa, these practices are not trends; they are traditions deeply embodied in our culture as a result of necessity and resourcefulness.

We are all aware of the numbers. You know, the negative impact the fashion industry has on our environment. If not, here are some statistics to wrap your mind around:

• The global fashion industry produces over 92 million tonnes of textile waste annually.
• The fashion industry contributes 10% of global carbon emissions.
• The fashion industry consumes about 93 billion cubic meters of water annually – about 4% of the world’s fresh water [enough to meet the needs of 5 million people].
• 35% of microplastics released into our oceans and waterways come from synthetic textiles.
• As of today, we have produced enough clothing for the next 6 generations

There is clearly a need for urgent change – now. But how? As the fashion world scratches their heads trying to figure out how to curb fast fashion and create more organic and regenerative apparel, perhaps everyone should stop and look to Africa.

The 100% Organic Vanishing Textiles of Africa

African textiles in their native form were 100% organic made from pure cotton, raffia, bark, leaf fibre and bamboo amongst other natural plant materials. Most prints were woven into the fabric, as Africans were not colourists – well at least not the bright colours we see in today’s textiles and the “African” Kitenge. If we did dye our clothes, we would use naturally occurring dyes which then, tended to have more muted tones. I wrote more on this in an article dubbed The Vanishing Textiles of Africa that you can read here.

Africa’s regenerative textiles require over 50% less water than conventional materials, and non-GMO cotton and plant-based dyes can help restore soil health, preserve biodiversity, and reduce chemical runoff into water systems. We literally have the answer to one of the world’s largest and most pressing environmental challenges right in front of us.

Today, our once nascent textile and manufacturing industries are getting a new lease of life. As we revive these industries, what’s stopping us from positioning them to produce organic and regenerative fabrics – and in turn organic and sustainable fashion? Will it be more expensive – probably. Will we be able to produce as much – probably not. But remember, we don’t need more clothes. At least not in the quantities that are being produced today.

A Culture Rooted in Circularity

Long before sustainability became a global buzzword, Africans had perfected the art of making the most of limited resources. Fabric and fabric scraps were never discarded; they were transformed into quilts, accessories, or household items. Clothes were passed down through generations, repaired, repurposed, and reinvented to extend their lifecycle – if you are a last born of four like I am, you know this all too well.

With the influx of cheap second-hand ‘mitumba’ clothes into African markets, this culture has slowly died down. Either because the clothes we get now are of such poor quality, they disintegrate after a couple of wears, or because they’re just so cheap, there’s no need for hand-me-downs. In fact, I think ‘mitumba’ or ‘Obroni Wawu’ as it’s known in Ghana (meaning ‘Dead White Man’s Clothes’) is Africa’s Fast Fashion.

There’s a whole conversation about the impact of the second-hand clothes market in Africa that I shall not get into. However, I think it is about time our governments restricted the import of second-hand clothes [40% of which end up in landfills] to allow room for innovation and industry revival. I’m aware that said governments receive hundreds of millions of dollars in taxes annually from the import of second-hand clothing, but it has to be said. These restrictions would then force importing countries to re-think how they deal with their textile waste – and in turn, how much they produce in the first place.

The Untapped African Opportunity

“Urgent action is needed to make the fashion industry more sustainable” and I think Africa is more than adequately placed to offer the world conscious alternatives. But we need to move fast – when all the fashion production balls are still in the air. Because I believe that whoever is able to produce organic textiles and fashion at scale first, will benefit greatly from the economies of the fashion industry. 

With circularity deeply engrained in our culture, there are vast opportunities that can be explored on how to upcycle apparel. Many designers are doing it at individual levels, but this can also be done at industrial levels. Since we (Africa) current carry the bulk of discarded fashion, perhaps the second-hand clothes that come into the continent should go straight into sorting plants and eventually factories for repurposing as opposed to ending up on the streets, in our dumpsites and beaches.

So let this be a call to industry players on the continent to take the first mover advantage. If you don’t do it, someone else will come, read your history books, and do it while you stand by and watch.