The Vanishing Textiles of Africa: The Legacy and Revival of BARKCLOTH

For centuries, Africa has been home to some of the most remarkable textile traditions, each woven with history, identity, and craftsmanship. However, as modern fabrics and fast fashion take centre stage, many of these ancient textiles are disappearing. Among them is barkcloth, a fabric deeply rooted in Uganda’s cultural and spiritual heritage.

Once revered as a royal textile, barkcloth is now at risk of fading into obscurity – but not without a fight from designers and cultural advocates determined to keep its legacy alive. Barkcloth is one of the world’s oldest non-woven fabrics. Made from the bark of the Mutuba tree (Ficus natalensis), this textile has been handcrafted for generations by the Baganda people of Southern Uganda.

How Barkcloth is Made

The process of making barkcloth is an intricate and labour-intensive craft, requiring skill and patience:

1. Harvesting the Bark – The process begins with carefully stripping the outer bark from the Mutuba tree in a way that does not harm the tree. The tree is then wrapped for a week with banana leaf to begin the regeneration process. For this process. Mutuba Trees are not felled, allowing for sustainable harvesting every 12-18 months.
2. Boiling the Bark – The freshly harvested bark is boiled in water for 5 – 10 to soften its fibres, making it more pliable for the next stage of processing.
3. Beating the Bark – The softened bark is laid out on a hard surface and repeatedly beaten with wooden mallets for several hours. This process stretches and flattens the bark, transforming it into a supple, leather-like fabric with a soft, textured finish.
4. Drying and Finishing – Once beaten to the desired thickness and texture, the barkcloth is left to dry in the sun. Some artisans may apply natural oils to enhance its durability and colour. The longer it stays under the sun, the darker it gets.

The tree regenerates its bark, allowing for sustainable harvesting for up to 60 years, making barkcloth one of the world’s most eco-friendly textiles.

A Royal Textile and Cultural Symbol

Historically, barkcloth was worn by Baganda kings, chiefs, and spiritual leaders, signifying power and prestige. It was also integral to rituals, from weddings to funerals, and believed to possess spiritual protection. The craft was passed down through generations, with each family having its own techniques for creating unique patterns and textures.

Barkcloth is considered one of The Vanishing Textiles of Africa, tied to larger shifts in the textile industry. With the introduction of cotton and synthetic fabrics during the colonial era, traditional textiles were deemed outdated. As Western-style clothing became the norm, younger generations lost interest in learning the craft, leading to a steep decline in artisans producing barkcloth. Lack of market demand means that artisans struggle to make a living from barkcloth production. Urbanisation has led to the destruction of Mutuba trees, reducing access to raw materials. Fast fashion has prioritised cheap, synthetic fabrics, leaving little room for handmade textiles..

In 2005, UNESCO recognised barkcloth as an “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity”, acknowledging its historical significance and the urgent need to preserve it.

A Revival in the Making

Despite these challenges, a wave of designers, cultural activists, and sustainability advocates are working to bring barkcloth back into the mainstream with many designers making barkcloth-inspired collections. One of the most notable champions is José Hendo, a Ugandan-born, London-based designer who has incorporated barkcloth into contemporary fashion. Through her initiative Bark To The Roots (B2TR), she is advocating for its resurgence while promoting sustainable fashion practices.

A textile artist and educator from the UK, Bobby Britnell has extensively explored the use of Ugandan barkcloth in her art. She collaborates closely with Ugandan artisans, incorporating barkcloth into her textile artworks and promoting its cultural significance.

Based in Kampala, Uganda, Sarah Nakisanze is a fashion designer, educator, and researcher. She is recognized for her work with indigenous materials, particularly barkcloth, in eco-product design. Nakisanze collaborates with artisanal communities to promote sustainable design practices and craftsmanship.

Durable and versatile, barkcloth can reimagined to make apparel, bags and wallets, furniture upholstery, wall hangings and décor pieces, and even eco-contemporary African art.

Why Barkcloth Matters More Than Ever

In an era where sustainability is no longer optional, barkcloth serves as a blueprint for the future of fashion and design. Unlike cotton or synthetic fibres, barkcloth requires no additional water, chemicals, or dyes – making it one of the most low-impact textiles available. Its return could not only revitalise a disappearing craft but also offer an African-led solution to the climate crisis.

The fate of barkcloth depends on whether Africa and the world choose to embrace heritage over convenience. While its decline has been rapid, its revival is gathering momentum. With greater investment in artisan training, sustainable production, and global awareness, barkcloth could once again become a symbol of African craftsmanship and ingenuity.

As global conversations shift towards slow fashion and ethical sourcing, the question remains: Can barkcloth reclaim its place as a textile of the future, or will it become another forgotten relic of Africa’s rich textile history?